Posts Tagged ‘Hucklebury

30
Dec
16

Tuckerman and Co. – Great Dress Shirts Made in the USA

NEW HAVEN — A startup launched by a couple of Yale grads is quietly making a name for itself in the fast-growing business of premium organic work clothing made in the USA. A couple of Yale grads are finding success with a $145 work shirt made in the USA from organic cotton.

Source: Making Great Clothing That’s Also Organic And Made In The USA – Hartford Courant

by Sujata Srinivasan

Making Great Clothing That’s Also Organic and Made In The USA

amanda-rinderle-and-husband-jonas-clark

NEW HAVEN — A startup launched by a couple of Yale grads is quietly making a name for itself in the fast-growing business of premium organic work clothing made in the USA.

“You had Patagonia for the weekend but nothing if you needed a suit to wear to work,” said Amanda Rinderle, who along with her husband Jonas Clark began Tuckerman & Co. from a start-up incubator at Yale last year.

“Everything’s fast fashion, so it’s not made to last. We looked into it and realized that there was a huge environmental problem, particularly for cotton. It’s one of the most chemically-intensive crops in the world,” said Rinderle.

Rinderle, 30, and Clark, 34, are tapping into a growing consumer class driven to make purchases that are in line with both fashion and personal values. The couple – who met in Cambridge, Mass., before moving to Connecticut to attend Yale – began their entrepreneurial venture because they were frustrated at not being able to find ethically sourced, high-quality work clothing that was made to last.

According to the World Wildlife Fund, cotton covers just 2.4 percent of the world’s crop land but accounts for 24 percent of the global sales of insecticide and 11 percent of pesticides sales.

“We’re outdoorsy people and have been big fans of Patagonia and their approach to their supply chain,” said Clark. “They switched to organic cotton long before it became cool. We thought – ‘gosh, where’s a Patagonia for the office?’ That kind of got us off and running.”

As luck would have it, Patagonia’s Chief Storyteller Vincent Stanley was giving a talk at the Yale School of Management where Rinderle and Clark, then students, cornered him with the pitch for Tuckerman & Co., named after their favorite hiking trail in New Hampshire.

Stanley not only liked the idea, he got onboard as an advisor. “I was encouraged by the impeccable quality of the final product,” he said.

The men’s dress shirts – single line stitching, raised hems, buttons from tree nuts in Panama, interfacing stitched in to avoid chemicals – are made from organic cotton grown in Israel and woven in Italy by suppliers who hold the Global Organic Textiles Standard (GOTS) certification. The material is cut and sewn at a factory in Fall River, Mass., where workers are second and third generation unionized shirt-makers with healthcare coverage, earning an average hourly pay of $12. The company has no employees besides Rinderle and Clark.

Launched in New Haven from a start-up incubator at Yale last year, Tuckerman has raised close to $100,000 in grants, including $30,267 from 255 donors on Kickstarter in 2014, when the duo was in their second year. Clark said the online start-up quickly became profitable but he declined to divulge revenue. The company is test-marketing a line of women’s shirts.

“Most people who are paying $100 for a shirt at a retailer – that shirt cost $25 to make,” said Clark. “Because we are direct to consumer, we cut out some of those mark-ups along the way.”‘

Tuckerman’s dress shirt is priced at $145. Brooks Brothers non-organic cotton Herringbone French Cuff dress shirt, for example, woven in Italy, is priced at $325.

“The concern about the environment is spreading. However, when the price is high, such concerns matter less,” said Narasimhan Srinivasan, professor of marketing at the University of Connecticut. “But obviously Tuckerman is catering to an upscale market. It’s economically viable.”

For artisanal clothing makers, a small group of loyal customers is all it takes to sustain sales. “The market segment for longer lasting versus cheap throw-away clothes is growing,” said Anne MacDonald, former chief marketing officer at Macy’s and an advisor to Tuckerman. “The shopper who buys only on discount and in price promotion department stores such as Macy’s and H&M is not the primary customer Tuckerman is targeting.”

Tuckerman sees its core customers as consumers willing to spend on brands that value people and the planet. These consumers choose to support retailers who help build sustainable supplier communities abroad and the buy local movement at home. Nearly 20 percent of Tuckerman’s sales are accrued in Connecticut as buyers spend dollars in support of local craftspeople and retailers.

Demand for Made in USA wedding gowns is driving sales at Modern Trousseau in Woodbridge, which sells across the U.S. and also in the U.K. and Japan at an average wholesale price of around $1,800 per gown. In Ridgefield, Fox-Rich Textiles Inc., a fabric converter, supplies material for hunting and theatrical accessories.

At the Hartford Denim Company LLC, launched in 2010, Dave Marcoux, 32, co-founder, said sales continues to grow locally. Priced at $235 each, the jeans are made in Hartford on antique sewing machines and a Connecticut logo goes on every pair sold in the U.S., Sweden and Japan. The thread is sourced from New Bedford, Mass., and the denim from North Carolina. “We want to support the domestic economy as well as avoid child labor,” said Marcoux.

Tuckerman & Co. Hoagy Check

Tuckerman & Co. Hoagy Check

The demand for small online stores selling handcrafted work including clothing has spurred the phenomenal success of marketplaces like Etsy, which has 24 million active buyers and gross merchandise sales of $2.39 billion in 2015.

“Young entrepreneurs are bringing back a fashion-forward spirit in America,” said Jacob Harrison Long, CEO of the American Woolen Company, which manufacturers fabric for J. Crew and Jos. A Banks in Stafford Springs. In the last 18 months, his firm has aligned with 22 garment start-ups. “We’re tapping into a new Made in America phenomenon brought on by online apparel start-ups. Five years ago they were making nothing. Now they’re doing upward of $20 million in revenue.”

Much of that growth rests on support from a small but fierce band of loyalists who buy well, buy less, and derive satisfaction from an aesthetic wardrobe that’s gentle on the planet.

Tuckerman & Co. does not advertise online and relies on word-of-mouth and repeat customers. Reorder rates are more than 60 percent and the startup ranks high on Internet searches for men’s dress shirts alongside small artisanal companies such as Rawganique and Solne in the U.S. and Culturata in Canada. Clark views Brooks Brothers as the closest competitor, despite the disparity in pricing

“The purpose of Tuckerman is to make great clothing but to do it in a way that does right by those involved,” said Rinderle. “For us, that means working with partners who use fair labor practices and safe working conditions. It’s a real point of pride for us to make our shirts here.”

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Editor’s Comment
It is great to see another maker of dress shirts made in the USA. Check out their website: Tuckerman & Co. And don’t forget they are organic. Tuckerman and Co. was a Kickstarter project like another dress shirt maker Hucklebury.
18
Jan
16

Made in USA Clothing via Internet

Over the past couple of years, I have bought various clothing items, made in America, through companies that sell only through the Internet. I wanted to highlight some of those companies. All of them are high quality products, designed to last for years.

Poppy Von Frohlich – Poppy Von Frolich makes clothing for women. There is a limited number of clothing made for each style and it is almost made to measure. Coats, blouses.

Poppy Von Frolich

Poppy Von Frohlich Red Flannel top

Illuminite – This company makes active wear that reflects light at the night. They make shorts, pants, shirts, long sleeved shirts and jackets, not all are made in the USA.

IllumiNite Portland Cycling Jacket

IllumiNite Portland Cycling Jacket

American Giant – American Giant makes sweatshirts, hoodies, jackets, sweat pants and some of the best T shirts that have ever been made. Made for both men and women.

American Giant Essential Pullover

American Giant Essential Pullover

Oliver’s Apparel – Oliver’s started as a Kickstarter project to make activewear shorts for men, they still make these, but, since then, they have added lines such as underwear, active wear pants, and merino pullovers. Only for men.

Oliver's Apparel Boxer briefs

Oliver’s Apparel Boxer briefs

Robeworks – Robeworks makes bathrobes for both men and women. There are multiple styles, even hooded robes.

Robeworks LJ500 Luxury hooded Robe

Robeworks LJ500 Luxury hooded Robe

R. Riveter – R. Riveter started as a Kickstarter project. Military spouses make pouches, purses and handbags out of military remnants.

R. Riveter Bags

R. Riveter Bags

Stock Manufacturing Company – Stock started as a Kickstarter project. It has successfully expanded from just men’s shirts to jackets, pants, sweat shorts, T-shirts, flight pants, sweat pants, ties and several other accessories.

Stock Mfg Company M65 Jacket

Stock Mfg Company M65 Jacket

Hucklebury – Hucklebury started as a Kickstarter project. Hucklebury makes premium dress shirts for around $80. All made in the USA.

Hucklebury Washington Navy Blue Stripes

Hucklebury Washington Navy Blue Stripes

Alamere – Alamere, previously POP Outerwear makes outerwear for both men and women – all made in San Francisco, CA.

Alamere Paige Sotshell Jacket

Alamere Paige Sotshell Jacket

KNO Clothing – KNO Clothing started as a Kickstarter project producing  T-shirts for ethical and socially responsible reasons. KNO, now, makes more than T-shirts and tanks, but also Hoodies and dresses.

KNO Clothing T Shirt

KNO Clothing T Shirt

Footskins – Footskins makes boots, moccasins and deerskin slippers for both mean and women.

Footskins sheepskin slippers

Footskins sheepskin slippers

 

Honorable Mention

Before + Again Ladies clothing by different designers, tops, dresses, skirts. Great selection.

Begin and Again Sonya Orange Dress

Before and Again Sonya Orange Dress

Mortal Trend – Mortal Trend started as a Kickstarter Project. They make quality tops and pullovers for men.

Mortal Trend Clyde Pullover

Mortal Trend Clyde Pullover

14
Oct
14

Hucklebury – Premium US Made Dress Shirts

Hucklebury is a clothing brand who recently reached its Kickstater (a crowd-source funding) goal and has started delivering its product, premium dress shirts. Does its product satisfy its stated promise of a great dress shirt made in the USA for $74?

First off, does Hucklebury qualify as a premium shirt? Let us check the characteristics of the shirts. Great material – Egyptian cotton, check; Great processing of material – milling in exclusive Italian Mill, check. Quality sewing – Made in USA, Washington DC plant with extensive experience in sewing, check. Other details: Mother of pearl buttons, double stitching along the sides (instead of stays), bottom horizontal reinforced button hole, stiffer, hand-sewn, collars, and an excellent fit for an off the rack measurement (thanks to Styku technology). So, yes, the shirt definitely qualifies as a premium made in USA shirt. For what makes a great dress shirt, see my blog entry: Best Dress Shirts: USA vs the World.

Second, is a Hucklebury shirt worth $74? For some men who have never paid more than $20 or $30 for a shirt in their life, it probably isn’t worth it to them (but they might be surprised with their first ever quality shirt). But, for those who value their appearance and appreciate a good shirt, then, Hucklebury is definitely worth it. I have compared my two Hucklebury shirts with my own closet of shirts which comprises brands such as Kiton, Versace, Armani, Black Fleece, Eton, Brioni, Hickey Freeman, Burberry, Oxxford, Robert Talbott, Etro, Hamilton, Yves St. Laurent, Tom Ford, Breuer, Haupt, Brooks Brothers, and Rag and Bone (all made in Italy or the U.S. except for Eton & Burberry ). From this, I can safely conclude that the Hucklebury shirts are the equivalent of a $250 shirt (retail).

Hucklebury Made in USA

Hucklebury
Made in USA

The Story of Hucklebury

Hucklebury is the brain child of two San Francisco based. entrepreneurs, Parag Jhaveri and Dhawal Shah. Parag is an engineer, whose family was greatly involved in the fashion industry – exporting scarves and white shirts to some of the main clothing supply chains. His interest is, however, more into product development as well as manufacturing and marketing strategies. Their are obvious inefficiencies in making off the rack clothing and selling them through various department stores.  WIth Hucklebury many inefficiencies have been eliminated: No unnecessary clothing is made,  and no needless shipping to various department stores with all of their devastating mark-ups.

Co-founder of Hucklebury, Dhawal Shah, is a former computer prodigy and internet genius. This talent is of paramount importance in this modern day where on-line shopping is rapidly expanding versus the brick and mortar stores, which are decreasing. Both, Parag and Dhawal, are master marketers. This is essential in any direct to consumer product (which Hucklebury is). Their marketing strategy is interesting. They are getting the word out by targeting bloggers who are interested in fashion or made in the USA, social media, twitter, Reddit, Facebook ads, newer technologies and eventually, regular media.

The Origin of the Name Hucklebury

The name Hucklebury comes from the famous Mark Twain character, Hucklebury Finn. The founders view Hucklebury Finn as a hero that goes against the norms, persevering against the odds. I mean, look at the new path Hucklebury is creating: 1) off the rack; 2) direct to consumers; 3) a 365 day guarantee; 4) no department stores; 5) marketing through bloggers and social media; and 6) bringing back clothing manufacturing to America when other corporations within the United States, Inc., continue to outsource well paying, valuable American jobs overseas. Definitely, this is a new path.

Styku Technology

One of the biggest problems with on-line shopping for clothing is fit. A certain manufacturer’s size “Small” may be another makers “Medium”, etc. The return rate of on-line clothing purchases due to poor fit is fairly high. However, with Styku, a new technology being used by Hucklebury, has helped with getting the consumer the correct fit and, therefore, has decreased Hucklebury’s return rate by 30% compared to standard practices. The Styku technology uses measurements uses chest, waist, sleeve length and body length to help with fit. With Hucklebury, one can specify whether one would like a slim-fit appearance or a “regular” appearance.

Why Made in the USA?

For Hucklebury and co-founder, Parag, making the product in the United States was not a gimmick in order to sell shirts. Making shirts in the United States is a way to give back to the community and a way to empower poorer people especially women. Being a socially conscious company is very important to Parag – this comes from the values taught to him by his mother, who also worked in the fashion industry. In an era where corporations are responsible for terrible working conditions all over the world – causing needless tragedies like the Bangladesh factory fires and building collapse or the massive suicides over at the Apple Foxxconn plant in China, it is refreshing to see entrepreneurs that aren’t just all about the money. As the Supreme Court in the USA continues to give corporations rights as “people” and, even, giving corporations religious rights, it seems only fair that corporations (their board of directors and their activist stockholders) should go to jail for the crimes they commit against humanity (corporations are now people, aren’t they?).  Just a quick reflection about Foxxconn, in all the centuries that there have been slaves – just how bad are the conditions that the slaves actually commit suicide?

The United States has continually added jobs since the Great Recession ended, the economy is much stronger, however, people complain that wages have not come back up. This is because most of the higher paying jobs, like manufacturing have been outsourced, and many other good paying jobs have been simply eliminated in order to squeeze out more short-term profits in order to look better for The Stock Market. All the profits are going directly to the top (since 1980) and this is why there is the greatest wealth disparity in the USA since the 1920s. The only plan now to decrease wealth disparity is to increase the minimum wage because so many people are stuck in the lowest paying service jobs. And there have been no plans or laws to increase manufacturing in the U.S. that can pass Congress (the GOP is the party of big corporations and there are enough Democrats who are beholden to big corporations that future legislation looks bleak). This means the only way that the U.S. can increase manufacturing is through a grass roots effort. Buy American, put Americans to work at better paying jobs and get yourself a better quality and safe product. And vote out those outsourcing proponents.

Conclusion

The number of American made dress shirt makers is quite small. And the number that makes premium dress shirts is just a handful. Hucklebury, with its low price point, neatly fills the niche of premium USA made dress shirts. Hucklebury makes great dress shirts that should retail for $250 but sell less than $74. Hucklebury will be my “Go-to” site for dress shirts. (My other “Go-to” sites are Flint and Tinder (for underwear), Bills Khakis,  Allen Edmonds (dress shoes) and New Balance (athletic shoes)). For more about Hucklebury, check out their Facebook page. For those who would like to order shirts from Hucklebury, go to Hucklebury.com.

Below is a list of American made dress shirts from Listing of American clothing brands – retail.

Dress Shirts (Oxford Shirts)

  1. Alexander Olch
  2. Allen Edmonds
  3. American Apparel
  4. Band Of Outsiders
  5. Bills Khakis
  6. Billy Reid (few)
  7. Black Fleece
  8. Blues Jean Bar
  9. Brooks Brothers Few)
  10. Club Monaco (few)
  11. Ernest Alexander
  12. Frank & Eileen
  13. Freemans Sporting Club
  14. Gitman Brothers
  15. Gitman Brothers Vintage
  16. Hamilton
  17. Hlaska (No longer making shirts)
  18. Hickey Freeman
  19. Ike Behar (No longer made in USA)
  20. J. Press
  21. James Perse
  22. John Varvatos Star (rare)
  23. Lipson
  24. Mason’s
  25. New England Shirt Co.
  26. Ovadia & Sons
  27. Oxxford
  28. Patrick Ervell
  29. Rag & Bone
  30. Richard Chai
  31. Robert Talbott (few)
  32. Simon Spurr (no longer available)
  33. Taylor Stitch
  34. Todd Snyder (few)
  35. Thom Browne

 

Other articles about Hucklebury (From most relevant to less relevant)

Review: Hucklebury Shirts (and Giveaway) by The Silentist

Interview: Parag and Dhawal Shah of Hucklebury by Vouchmag

Introducing Hucklebury, The Newest Luxury Dress Shirt At Great Price by Crowddistrict

MSP Endorses: Hucklebury Button Down Shirts by Mens Style Pro

Product Review: Hucklebury Slim-Fit Green Stripe Shirts by The Pantalones

Product Review: Hucklebury Shirts by Simpler Man

Customer Spotlight – Hucklebury by Spree Commerce

OnLine Sizing Technology Helps Two Apparel Sellers Get off the Ground by Internet Retailer (About Styku Technology)

Hucklebury Co-Founder Parag Jhaveri Redefining Premium Menswear by FashInvest

Wide Eyes, Tight Wallet by blogspot.com

Hucklebury Shirts Kickstarter by Wefty and Mash

Hucklebury Shirts: A Great Dress Shirt Made in the USA for $78 by clothingmadeinusablog

Hucklebury Product Spotlight by 50built (a website regarding products made in the USA)

Courtesy of Hucklebury Sky Blue Orchard Gingham by This Fits

Hucklebury: A New Way To Shop For Shirts by The Manuel

On Kickstarter Now: D.C. Based Proper Socks and $70 American Made Shirts by Hucklebury by Modern Fellows

Hucklebury Shirts: Crowdsourced & Made In The USA by Network.details

Kickstarter – Dress Shirts by Hucklebury by Found in the Fifties

Hucklebury Dress Shirts by Gear Hungry

Hucklebury Shirts by Man of Many

21
Nov
13

HUCKLEBURY : The Perfect Fitting Shirt, for $70 – Kickstarter

HUCKLEBURY : The Perfect Fitting Shirt, Backed for 365 days by Dhawal Shah — Kickstarter. Hucklebury is re-starting its Kickstarter project to deliver well-made dress shirts, all made in the USA. The founder Dhawal Shah has decided the cut the price of the shirts from $78 to $70 per shirt, because he found he could make the shirts even less expensive than he originally forecasted. The initial offering on Kickstarter did make its original goal, so there is a great chance that Hucklebury will make its goal this time as well.

Hucklebury dress shirts

Hucklebury dress shirts

See my previous post about Hucklebury to see more about the product from my November 3, 2013 entry. The dress shirts are a great value, normally a dress shirt like this, due to mark-ups of distributors and chain retailers, would sell for $200 to $400 per shirt. Become a backer today. Update: Hucklebury has reached its first goal, that was fast. (November 21,2013); Hucklebury has reached its second goal of $25,000. Updated December 8, 2013.

03
Nov
13

HUCKLEBURY:A great dress shirt made in USA for $78 – Kickstarter

HUCKLEBURY: Redefining premium menswear, Backed for 365 days by Dhawal Shah — Kickstarter. Here is another great idea for crowd-funding (through Kickstarter) – Hucklebury. Hucklebury promises to deliver a high quality luxury dress shirt, “Made in the USA” – that normally retails from $215 – $400 – for a fabulous price of just $78. The reason for the reasonable price – there is no “middleman” – the distributors and the department stores which suck up the profits, are cut out.

The construction of a Hucklebury shirt

The construction of a Hucklebury shirt

Like the top dress shirts in the world, the fabric is the most important, and in Hucklebury, the material is made of an Egyptian cotton, milled in Italy, used by companies like Zegna, and Armani. This fabric will then be assembled in the United States and sold through Hucklebury’s website. The buttons will be made of mother of Pearl like the classic luxury shirts. If you don’t know what goes into a great dress shirt, I direct you to my second most popular link: Best Dress Shirts Made in the USA vs the World.

Comparison chart of top dress shirts versus Hucklebury

Comparison chart

Comparison chart

On the comparison chart, it is for the most part quite accurate. But, just a few clarifications: in certain stores, Kiton shirts can sell for over a $1,000 per shirt, but they are hand-stitched and always made in Italy (personally, if I had a new product I wouldn’t want to match up against Kiton). Burberry is rarely, if ever, made in London, even though it may say “Burberry London”. Most often Burberry shirts are made in Tunisia, but it doesn’t make them any cheaper (but it does lower their quality). J. Crew shirts, unless something has changed in the past month does not makes shirts in the United States, nor are they of very good quality. Thomas Pink, also, is not made in London, although some people have considered them high quality shirts, they did not make my list, the same goes for Ralph Lauren and Kenneth Cole.

History

Hucklebury under Dhawal Shah of San Francisco has a 15 year history of working with the fashion industry. They know the industry and they know the problems. Hucklebury is close to reaching their target goal on Kickstarter and it fills a definite niche for every man’s wardrobe – a great looking, great quality dress shirt, made in the USA, that won’t break the bank. Check out the Hucklebury site on Kickstarter.

Other Successful Kickstarter Projects

Kickstarter has supercharged some made in USA clothing companies such as Flint and Tinder (men’s underwear), Ball and Buck (sporting clothing and accessories), Stock Mfg, Co. (shirts, caps); Oliver’s (athletic shorts); and don’t forget Dyer and Jenkins (selvedge jeans, sweatshirts) who has almost reached their start-up goal.

Congratulations to Hucklebury, they have reached their goal. With continued funding they will start more products. Updated November 8, 2013.




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