15 Rules For Wearing Suits All Men Need to Know
from the online magazine: Diply
1. A three-piece suit can look dreary, unless the waistcoat is well-fitted and tapered close to the waist
2. Always unfasten the buttons on your suit when you sit down. Always. NO exceptions
3. When wearing a light-colored suit, a dark pocket square can provide a visual anchor
4. Never pair a sports watch with a suit. Ever. Get yourself a proper watch
5. Remember to ALWAYS remove the stitching on the vents before wearing a new suit
6. If you’re going tie-less, make sure that your collar is on the smaller side
7. For a proper-fitting jacket, you should be able to fit a fist between your buttoned-up jacket and your chest
8. A patterned over coat is a great compliment to a neutral suit
9. Your tie bar should never be wider than your tie
10. Don’t be afraid of polka dots
11. The bottom button of a double-breasted jacket should never be fastened
12. Do NOT over-accessorize. A pocket-square, a tie bar, and a lapel pin is too much at once
13. A bold tie should be paired with a subtle shirt
14. The fabric of your suit should depend on how often you’ll be wearing it. You’ll want to go with more durable fabrics for daily wear.
15. Pick-stitching (or visible stitching around the lapel) can add a decorative flourish, if they’re subtle. Contrast stitching is just a no.
On Number 5, if you have forgotten to cut out the vent stitches, then you may have also forgotten to cut out the label at the end of the sleeve. We don’t really need to see who made your suit. Remember, it is a label, not a monogram.
On Number 11, do not fasten the bottom button on a double-breasted suit. But then, you should not fasten the bottom button on a single breasted suit either. Why have a button there and not use it? It is called fashion. Ever since King Henry VIII was too heavy to keep his bottom button fastened, it has always been “fashionable” to keep the bottom button unfastened.
The most important tip is to buy a high quality suit. You don’t want to buy-one-get three-free pricing suits which are better suited for wiping up spills and soaking up bacon grease…and cheaper than paper towels.
First, let us look what is the difference between a bargain or “cheap” suit and a luxury suit. The cheap suit will always be manufactured in areas famous for slave labor: China, Bangladesh, Vietnam,etc. The cheap suit will be made of inferior fabric – one that is rough to the touch and wrinkles easily. The bargain suit tends not to fit well – with stiff shoulders and a full boxy cut. The armholes often are cut too low – making moving uncomfortable every time you lift your arms. The bargain jacket will have cheap interlinings which are frequently glued into the suit which will break down after a few cleanings. Avoid the cheap suit at all costs, the suit is meant to impress.
The luxury suit will be made in the United States, Canada or Italy. The fabric is generally wool that “breathes”, so it’s cool with a modern fit creating a softer and more sculpted shape. All quality suits have exceptional interlinings and probably the important factor is impeccable tailoring – a suit that “just fits” and allows you to move and be comfortable all day.
Some of the best American suits are made by Hart,Schaffner & Marx; Hickey Freeman; Black Fleece; Oxxford (if you can find them) and Jack Victor (Canada). If you are looking for the best suits in the world, then you will have to get yourself an Italian suit. Top names include: Kiron, Brioni, Lanvin, Tom Ford, Loro Piana, Canali, Dolce & Gabbana and Armani (if it is Italian made). If you like colors, look into ETRO. Of course, the best suits are bespoken, they take your measurements and then make up the suit for you, like in Saville Row in London. That option works, if you have the $$$$$.
Now go out there and impress.